Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Review ~ Phusion, Woods Hole, MA

I'm a big fan of Phusion, but I know when to call a duck a duck.

(Yes, I know the place used to be called the black duck, what about it?)

The other night, I went to Phusion with a big party of people. What better way to try everything on their small and select menu. Before I sat down, I met with the owner, (who doesn't know I write this) who updated me on all of the changes in the menu, staff, town, etc. There's a lot happening in Woods Hole cuisine these days!

It's good to know that despite the boats rocking, the quality of the food coming across the pass hasn't been affected- it's all still top-notch.

Several orders of the tenderloin special (a gorgeous 4 oz. tenderloin with bacon and fontina on top of a potato and cheese wedge topped with a plum wine hoisin sauce redux), and pan seared diver scallops with flavored basmati rice and veg were served to us. The vietnamese pot stickers chock full of flavor and caramelization sided with sashimi tuna, which was rolled with sesame seeds and seared for a moment, were almost jumping into my mouth. Also arriving at our table was a slight disappointment (here's the duck of the night)- the calamari. I can't remember even having bad calamari at Phusion. In fact, it used to be the bar that I would hold all others to. Not tonight; rubbery, overcooked, and really disappointing. These were served on top of a somewhat flat sauce of crushed tomatos, garlic, and capers.

How to resurrect the dinged experience? Dessert!
While I can't say I tasted everything that came out. I can tell you that everyone, including the hard cynics at the table, melted with glee at the Passionfruit glace, the Ginger Creme Brulee, and the Chocolate Cheesecake.

Overall, Phusion seems to have pulled out of the debacle of a last-minute-staff-change-'cause-my-chef-left-during-prep-on-a-friday-night. The new chef seems to have found her place here. I just can't wait to see what happens with the menu in the near future.

With the ownership of Fishmonger changing like the seasons, and the vapid menu of the Landfall steadily supplying the tourists of the Vineyard, Phusion is poised as the anchor of Woods Hole, steadily holding on to new and consistent cuisine.
It's still my favorite duck...

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